Established in 1865 (the late Edo period and just before the Meiji Restoration), Higashiiida Sake Brewery has been loved locally for over 150 years. We spoke with Mr. Iida, a toji (master brewer), who continues to preserve the traditional sake-making methods, about the charms of sake.
Sake in Nagano
Sake requires fermentation at low temperatures, with the maximum temperature around 15 degrees, which makes cold climates ideal. Moreover, in colder regions, fewer microorganisms can proliferate, resulting in sake with less off-flavor and better taste. Nagano Prefecture, which is often snow-covered in winter, can be considered an optimal environment for sake brewing.
Rice and Water: the Soul of Sake
The life of sake depends on good water and good rice. Since its founding, Higashiiida Sake Brewery has been dedicated to using local Nagano ingredients. They use groundwater from the Sai River for sake making. This groundwater flows through a shallow sand and gravel layer, which reduces impurities, effectively creating a naturally filtered water quality that is ideal for sake making. The rice they use comes from the locally grown sake rice cultivated by Nobusato Mirai Juku, a regional revitalization group. The Nobusato District has long been known as a high-quality rice production area. By using premium rice, they aim to create not just sake, but also contribute to building the future of their local community.
Declining Sake Production
Looking at the overall Japanese sake market, sake production is currently on a declining trend. One of the primary reasons is the decreasing opportunities for younger generations to drink sake. Compared to the peak production of 1.7 million kiloliters, the production has now dropped to less than 600,000 kiloliters.
Approachable Sake
While sake production is declining, Higashiiida Sake Brewery is implementing various initiatives to make sake more approachable to modern consumers. Incorporating Japan’s “moe culture,” they sell sake with labels featuring Oshino-san, the local mascot from Shinonoi in Nagano City. These bottles are sold not only in Nagano Prefecture but also at sake events in other prefectures. The unique packaging attracts people who don’t normally drink sake, sometimes turning them into sake fans. Additionally, the Matsumidori sake, brewed by the shop owner’s daughter who admits she’s not particularly fond of sake herself, has been incredibly popular. Its light ginjo aroma makes it easy to drink even for sake novices.
Evolving with the Times
Higashiiida Sake Brewery offers brewery tours for tourists, attracting numerous visitors not only from Japan but also from overseas. The sake brewery, earthen storehouse, pickles storehouse, and reception room are all registered as National Tangible Cultural Properties, offering visitors a truly impressive experience. QR codes are strategically placed on the brewery’s pillars, allowing visitors to scan them with their smartphones and watch manufacturing process videos on YouTube. These various initiatives that adapt to the times are becoming the catalyst for spreading sake to new demographic groups who are not typically familiar with sake.
Profile
Owner Iida is a marathon enthusiast. He participates in marathons held in various regions throughout Japan and uploads videos of these events to his YouTube channel! His energy and health are undoubtedly supported by fermented foods from Nagano Prefecture.
