Founded in 1848, Miharaya has a long history of producing and selling traditional miso and soy sauce. We interviewed Mr. Kawahara Kiyotaka, the sixth-generation owner of Miharaya, about the appeal and philosophy behind their food production.
Traditional Soy Sauce Brewing
At Miharaya, they produce traditional “hi-ire shoyu” (heat-treated soy sauce). “Hi-ire” is a traditional manufacturing method that improves the storability of soy sauce and maximizes its aroma through heating. In recent years, raw soy sauce without heat treatment has been sold more in the market, but it is the painstaking hi-ire process performed by their craftsmen that creates Miharaya’s deeply aromatic soy sauce.
A Taste Born from Traditional Craftsmanship
The hi-ire technique is profound, worthy of a soy sauce artisan dedicating their entire lifetime to mastering the craft. “Only about 200 artisans can perform hi-ire,” says Mr. Kawahara. Among the carefully executed manufacturing processes, the final hi-ire step is especially challenging, and it’s impossible to produce exactly the same soy sauce each time. Unlike mass-produced soy sauces created through mechanization, Miharaya’s traditional soy sauce is crafted based on the sensibilities of experienced artisans, characterized by its unique deep flavor and the subtle differences from each brewing pot.
A Wide Variety of Soy Sauces
Miharaya produces and sells a wide variety of soy sauces, with a notable focus on “low-salt” and “light” products. One of their most distinctive products is “Koala Shoyu”. The adorable product name was inspired by the image of a “mother and child”. This soy sauce has a umami flavor similar to dashi (broth), and even in its light version, it maintains a robust aroma. With its gentle taste, this soy sauce is versatile—it can be used in baby food and is popular for being easily consumable by children and the elderly.
Owner Kawahara’s Philosophy
Before taking over the family business, Owner Kawahara was a researcher of nutritional supplements at a pharmaceutical company. Drawing from his specialized knowledge and perspective, he remarks, “modern people’s diets are like ‘space food’.” While contemporary thinking emphasizes that food production must occur in environments with rigorous hygiene management where no microorganisms or diverse bacteria should be present, humans have originally lived alongside various bacteria. He argues that people today, who frequently consume foods produced in thoroughly sanitized factories, have weakened intestinal bacteria. This is precisely why incorporating fermented foods is crucial. Fermented foods containing various bacteria are extremely effective in enhancing human immunity.
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Owner Kawahara, who brings his experiences from the pharmaceutical research field, is now passionate about soy sauce making. He shared his aspirations, stating that he wants to “pass down the traditional production techniques” and “share information about fermented foods.”
